Double Welt Zipper Pocket

My favorite purse is wearing out and I need to make a new one. What makes it my favorite is the little zipper pocket on the outside that is the perfect place to stash my keys. It is both easy to get to and secure. I always know where my keys are and there is no searching required in the bottom of the bag. The fabric I will be using is dressier than that used in the old purse. Rather than make a simple exposed zipper in a faced window, I wanted to make a double welt zipper pocket. Checking online, I couldn’t find a single tutorial for what I wanted. So here is my version.

double welt zipperWhat I found online, even though called a welt zipper, was the same as my original purse.

exposed zipperWhat I did was a double welt pocket with a zipper behind it. Not really too difficult, but requiring accurate sewing.

1. It really helps to interface the wrong side of the outer fabric. Mark on the back (interfacing) a rectangle that is the length of the zipper x 1/2″. I’ve also marked the center cutting line and diagonal slash marks to each corner.

pocket 12. Cut the facing/welt fabric: length of zipper + 1 1/2″ x 4″. Mark the same rectangle in the center of it and match up with the other rectangle, right sides together. In the photo you can see that I’ve sewn a pocket extension to the welt/facing.pocket 23. Turn to the interfacing side and stitch around the rectangle. Most instructions say to leave the short ends unsewn. That is only necessary when you are using single cut pieces for the welts and facing which is a different method altogether. Start stitching in the center, not a corner, and go all the way around. Shorten your stitches in the corners to make them more secure with the close clipping. It is important to be a precise as possible. Cut on the center line and slash to the corners.pocket 34. Turn the facing to the inside and finger press.pocket 45. Form the first welt by making a pleat with the fabric. The edge of the welt should be right at the halfway point of the opening. pocket 56. Fold the second welt. I have the pins on the right side because the welts will be sewn from that side.pocket 67. Flip to the right side and baste the welts closed. pocket 78. Place the zipper under the wrong side of the welts with the zipper facing the welts. Line the zipper teeth directly under the welt opening. Flip back to the right side and stitch in the ditch or close to the edge. The stitching shows up better on the back side.pocket 89. Press, remove the basting and you can complete your pocket.



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3 Responses to Double Welt Zipper Pocket

  1. Pingback: A Purse with Pockets | playfulstitching

  2. Margaret Higgins says:

    Thank you for this tutorial. I have been wanting to put a pocket like this on my new bag and have been disappointed in what some call a double welt with zipper pocket. Now I can proceed. Thanks again

    • Some of what I saw called “double welt” pocket was in fact a zipper in a faced opening. This is more like a bound buttonhole with a zipper behind it. I usually use the faced opening zipper, but this time I wanted to cover the zipper for a dressier look. Good luck with you bag!

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